$800 car part

H

heel79

Esteemed Member
Messages
749
So an oil light came on today in my 2019 Kia Sorento, which I love but the relationship is now strained. I take to dealer I bought from. Diagnostic cost $192. Am told I need a oil reader sensor. Cost is $800. Forgot to ask what it costs to install because the shock did not wear off until later. So a single sensor cost 1/25th of what I paid for the car? Thank God I'm rich.
I did tell them to look for a used one. WTF.
 
heel79 said:
So an oil light came on today in my 2019 Kia Sorento, which I love but the relationship is now strained. I take to dealer I bought from. Diagnostic cost $192. Am told I need a oil reader sensor. Cost is $800. Forgot to ask what it costs to install because the shock did not wear off until later. So a single sensor cost 1/25th of what I paid for the car? Thank God I'm rich.
I did tell them to look for a used one. WTF.
Click to expand...
I'd definitely get a second opinion.
 
heel79 said:
So an oil light came on today in my 2019 Kia Sorento, which I love but the relationship is now strained. I take to dealer I bought from. Diagnostic cost $192. Am told I need a oil reader sensor. Cost is $800. Forgot to ask what it costs to install because the shock did not wear off until later. So a single sensor cost 1/25th of what I paid for the car? Thank God I'm rich.
I did tell them to look for a used one. WTF.
Click to expand...
Did you buy it new? This seems like it should be covered under the 10yr/100K mile power train warranty.
 
I found a good mobile mechanic that comes to my house and can do most jobs. He tells me which parts to buy and I order them online. I don't know what year the Sorrento is, but I'd Hope the $800 includes labor.

From what I saw online, the replacement takes little more than removing the intake manifold and unhooking the battery. I would call around to some mom and pop shops to get quotes.

Screenshot_20251208_162608_Chrome.jpg
 
If it is the oil pressures sending unit, it must be labor, and that damn thing must be hidden way back in a nook or cranny. I replaced one on an old Mirage, and it was sticking out there for everyone to see. I think my mustang was the same. But again, that was in the mid 90s. Things have changed.
 
heel79 said:
So an oil light came on today in my 2019 Kia Sorento, which I love but the relationship is now strained. I take to dealer I bought from. Diagnostic cost $192. Am told I need a oil reader sensor. Cost is $800. Forgot to ask what it costs to install because the shock did not wear off until later. So a single sensor cost 1/25th of what I paid for the car? Thank God I'm rich.
I did tell them to look for a used one. WTF.
Click to expand...
My daughter took her Kia Soul in for a check engine light.

They told her it was the catalytic converter. She was going to have it fixed, but when they started they came back and said another sensor was bad and also needed to be replaced. The additional sensor was $3000.

When I had the Toyota Sienna minivan, there was a sensor for the ABS that went bad, they wanted $2600 for the sensor and $500 to replace it. Needless to say I didn't pay that for a 17 year old car, so I traded it.

Some of these parts are ridiculous, that's why I've purchased extended warranties on my last two cars. They cover things like the main computer failing, which is over $3000 and other expensive parts to 120K miles. It's worth the piece of mind.
 
heel79 said:
IMG_20251208_182753308.jpg
Click to expand...
Ok, the sending unit is different than the pressure or reader sensor.

That price probably includes labor as this isn't an easy part to get to.

My DIL got a quote for $1500 to change out a starter in her Toyota truck. We checked and could buy the starter for $200.

Then I looked up changing the starter. It was under the intake. You had to remove the intake and all that's associated with that. Also needed new intake gaskets and some other parts just to do the job.

It was still worth the savings, so we did it. Took about 4 hours.
 
From chatGPT:

Replacement
  • Part Numbers: Look for OEM part #39312-3C160 or equivalent aftermarket sensors.
  • Access: On 3.3L GDI engines, accessing it involves removing fuel rails and the lower intake manifold; it's a tight squeeze.
  • Cleaning: Clean the connector and surrounding area thoroughly if you find oil there.
Important Considerations
  • Check Oil First: Always ensure oil level and condition are good before assuming the sensor is bad.
  • Warranty Extension: Kia extended warranty coverage (15yr/150k miles) for leaking oil pressure switches on some models, so check with a dealer.
  • Professional Help: Due to difficult access and potential for related leaks (like valve cover gaskets), professional diagnosis is recommended.
I would check on the warranty thing. My truck has an extended warranty from Ford for one part, up to 150,000 miles and it is transferable. It's much cheaper for the manufacture to offer this than to repair this in every car as a recall.
 
UNCatTech said:
My DIL got a quote for $1500 to change out a starter in her Toyota truck. We checked and could buy the starter for $200.

Then I looked up changing the starter. It was under the intake. You had to remove the intake and all that's associated with that. Also needed new intake gaskets and some other parts just to do the job.

It was still worth the savings, so we did it. Took about 4 hours.
Click to expand...

Was it a 2UZ-FE? Dreading the day if/when the starters in my old Toyotas go out
 
I took my 2021 Pilot to the dealer a few weeks ago because I was getting a weird combination of seemingly unrelated codes/errors including transmission, emissions, and blind spot error. Intermittently I couldn't put it in gear due to the error. The car had been left in auxiliary power a couple of days prior so I figured it might have caused a computer glitch or maybe the errors were from a drained battery. After checking the car, the dealership service tech messaged me that based on the codes, the transmission failed and replacement would be $8,000.00!!! I told them that made no sense since it was clearly drivable, had no previous transmission issues and only had 70,000 miles with up to date routine maintenance.

I took it elsewhere for a second opinion. After the second opinion mechanic drove it for 150 miles, he agreed with me that it was just a glitch from the auxiliary power drain. They completed the routine service, saved me over $7,000, and I've had no issues since.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top