Ok, here is my missive on visiting Nova Scotia.
First thing to consider is time of year. August and September are hands down the best time of year to visit weather wise with comfortable temperatures and usually sunny days. October has been increasingly nice with global warming, but September and October do risk a hurricane/ tropical storm hit. NS gets hit by them more than NC these days. June and July can be hit or miss. Weather could be beautiful, could also be 50 degrees and foggy as all get out. Also the scourge upon humanity known as black flies are out during those months. These are fruit fly sized biting flies that descend on you in a cloud. September/October also the benefit of leaf changing season, especially in Cape Breton, but that will come with a premium price wise in Cape Breton where rest of the world wants to see the leaves in the highlands.
NS has I'd say 4 main regions. Halifax is in the center of three of them and can easily function as a base of operations. depending on how much you want to travel in a day. So you have the Halifax area, you have the Annapolis Valley, the South Shore and then Cape Breton. It takes less than two hours to drive North/South over the entire province, but a lot more to drive East/West. Halifax is on the Southern end of things, but you can get to the Valley in less than an hour, and to most of the spots on the South Shore in about an hour-90 minutes too. There are some exceptions, but I will cover them. Cape Breton is not a day trip from Halifax. It takes about 5 hours to drive there and if you want to see anything, you will need more time so if you head East you have to plan to stay out there.
Halifax area - The main city is divided into basically two cities, but have been incorporated into one. The west side of the Harbor is Halifax proper - it's a city on a peninsula, like Boston and the vast concentration of restaurants, businesses etc are here. The east side of the Harbour is Dartmouth, which is like Durham to Raleigh. It is has a smaller artsy district with some great restaurants, a nice park around a lake, but also large industrial areas, military bases etc. You can can take a cheap and quick ferry from Halifax to Dartmouth and vice versa - it's the best cruise you can take to see the city if you are just looking to get a good view of things. It also frees you up to look for accommodations in Dartmouth, if they are better priced without fear you are missing out by being stranded in the boonies. Dartmouth sprawls though, so make sure you look at map before you book anything. Public transportation other than the ferries is pretty lousy. The bus service is unreliable and can be crowded. Taxis are hated here by the population from years of not having enough of them and having all the power in the hands of the cab companies, but there is uber now. Ideally you will want to rent a car to leave the city though.
Downtown Halifax is relatively contained and walkable, there are some hills if mobility is an issue, but we are not talking SF here. The prime jewel of things since I moved here has been the renovation of the water front. At some point they figured out this area of old warehouses with great views could be turned into housing and commercial enterprises. There are now brand new multi use buildings, public art, lots of good restaurants (I'll make a general restaurant recommendation list in another post,) outdoor beer gardens etc. It's not huge - it isn't something you'll spend your whole trip, or even a half a day exploring, but it's a good point to return to for food or whatever. There is a great Maritime museum there with Titanic relics and a great exhibit on the
Halifax Explosion so if you are a history buff, might be worth checking out. On the subject of history, the city's center is dominated by the Halifax Citadel, which is an 18-19th century star shaped fort at the heart of the city. Which was built to protect Halifax from a land-based attack in coordination with various batteries along the harbor to protect against attack from the sea. Halifax Harbor is one of the largest and deepest ice-free harbors in the world. The entirety of the British navy at the peak of its power could fit in the harbor if it needed to. During WWI and WWII convoys formed up here because the ships could be protected while their numbers gathered. The citadel never fired a shot in war time as no one ever tried to invade Halifax, and it was obsolete by WWI of course. They do tours of it year round, and the re-enacters all dress as a 19th century Scottish highlands regiment with kilts etc. There is also the Alexander Keith brewery, which isn't really a brewery any more, but it has tours. Alexander Keith's is the second oldest beer in North America, behind Molson's. It's older than Yeungling. It's called an IPA, but no one considers it an IPA, but then again it is older than all the other IPAs so they are probably wrong. Locals consider it cheaper beer, but might be worth a taste if you are into that thing. Garrison and Propeller are the much preferred local microbrews, both with stores/ tasting rooms. There are also a bunch of other smaller ones Nine Locks brewery's "Dirty Blonde" being a favorite of the locals, there are also many cider places, which is huge here thanks to the Valley producing a butt ton of apples. Also the Alexander Keith brewery building has a farmers market on the weekends with some good food vendors.
The southern tip of Halifax is a giant park called Point Pleasant park. It took a hurricane hit on the chin in 2004, followed by a blizzard a few months later and even 20 years later the trees are still rebounding. it's a gorgeous park though with remains of old coastal batteries, and a great view of the Atlantic. Just west of Downtown is the Public Gardens, which is a Victorian era garden that is carefully curated and maintained most of the year round by a team of gardeners with a 19th century bandstand in the center and various water features. For sure worth a stroll. To be honest, unless you're a foodie and want to try every restaurant, you can see all of Halifax you want in a day, day and a half. The true power of Halifax is being a central point to branch out and see other things.
One other thing to say about Halifax is the Peggy's Cove area. I could easily lump it in with the South Shore, but it is technically in the city limits of Halifax (which are gigantic.) This is about 45 minutes away from the city and is basically the biggest tourist destination in the province. It's always crowded, and on unlucky days has many busses from cruise ships there. The main attraction is the lighthouse , set in among very rocky terrain and if the seas are rough you can see waves smashing against the rock that easily go the height of the lighthouse. You can't go in the lighthouse, just walk around it, but there are some really nice views. The town itself is a somewhat preserved old fishing village with various artisans, art galelries, and a few food places. There is usually a truck that sells lobster and offers boil your own, but I recommend going to the place called Tom's lobster shack for a more upscale lobster roll. They do the traditional New England mayo based one, but I am partial to Connecticut style, which is lobster cooked on a griddle in seasoned butter. This place calls it the naked roll. There are some whale watching and puffin tour cruises that leave from here, but these are going to be pricey. Peggys Cove is the tip of the Chebucto peninsula, which is a giant peninsula with several smaller peninsulas jutting off of it, including the one Halifax is on and the one I live on. The vast bit of the Chebucto peninsula is undeveloped and protected land and this especially true for around Peggys Cove. A drive through the area is like looking at an alien landscape with the occasional lone scraggly pine. This time of year the fields around it are firey red with the wild blueberry bushes changing color for the season, and house size erratic boulders left over from the glaciers. Five minutes east of Peggy's cove is a great hiking trail called Polly's Cove trail. Two minutes west of Peggy's cove is a memorial to
Swiss Air 111, which is a thoughtful memorial to the plane crash in a beautiful natural setting. (the crux of a memorial is a boulder sliced in half, the other half being in another memorial site on a different peninsula across St Margaret's bay. The plane went down in the water between the two spots.) A few more minutes down the road you get to Indian Harbour, which has a lobster wholesaler where you can buy the big bugs to cook yourself, a great restaurant called Rhubarb with a great patio if the weather is nice, and a place called Oceanstone Inn, which has smaller cabins and rooms you can rent, and has an attached spa. When we came to scout Halifax for the move we stayed here. It's a nice alternative to staying in the city. There is also an Acadian restaurant if you want to try authentic food from the pre-English colonial era of Nova Scotia. You can drive aroudn the whole peninsula to get to Peggy's Cove and back to Halifax. The east side is less picturesque, but it has its moments including the fishing village of Dover. The west side, up St. Margaret's Bay is really pretty though. On the West side there is a nice deli called White Sails where you can get some good take away sandwiches or eat near the inlet picnic tables they have set up. There are scattered art galleries along the way and at the end of it a maple syrup sugar shack in the town of Tantallon, which is at the top of the peninsula. Also a nice beer garden/ wood fired pizza placed called the Rustic Crust in Tantallon. I know that's listing 4 good places to eat all in one section, but it's good to have options...
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